One whole Gigantic Infodump On How to Make a Skirt

#裁缝合集Couture

Goal

Make a skirt like this: Straight Skirt with a back zip

Prerequisite

Assuming by this stage you have already selected and made/purchased a skirt pattern.

💬 Different possibilities for constructions First, sew all the darts. You want to press them towards the back. So for the back piece, that means you press boths sides towards eachother. For the front piece, just the opposite. The next thing you want to do is sew the seam that has the zipper, and insert the zipper into it. Follow the procedure that is appropriate for the type of zipper you're using. Sew up both the side seams. Your next step depends on whether you have a vent and lining. If you're including a lining, now is the time to make it. The lining is made the same way that the rest of the skirt is made, with two exceptions; the darts are just pleats, and they have more 'ease' included. How you distribute this 'ease' is up to you. You can add it to the dart pleats, add another dart pleat, or make a box pleat in the middle. Of course, if you include a lining, you have to include this in the way you've finished your zipper. And connect it to the vent, if your skirt has one of those. Next is attaching the waistband if your version has one. First fold it double along the long side and press. Add your interfacing. Sew it to the right side of the fabric. Then turn it over and press the seam into the waistband. Now use the stitch-in-the-ditch technique to finish the waistband. Add your choice of closure. All that is left now is to hem the skirt.

Les Marches à Suivre

  1. Adjust the pattern for fit and design

  2. Cut out all the pattern pieces. Transfer markings to fabric.

  3. Apply interfacing, as needed, at pocket, waistband, or zipper openings.

  4. Staystitch interfacing.

  5. Overlock edges if using serger to finish seams. Apply pockets while serging the side seams.

  6. Stitch darts or tucks. Apply pockets.

  7. Stitch center-back seam, forming French vent if there is one. Insert zipper.

  8. Pin side seams, wrong sides together, vertically along seamlines. Try on, altering as needed. Stitch side seams. Press. Try on again, fine-tuning for swayback, tummy, and waistline measurements.

  9. Construct lining: Stitch center back seam, allowing room for zipper and vent opening. Stitch side seams.

  10. Insert lining. Machine baste at waist, forming tucks at darts. Handsew around zipper.

💡 More info on Basting Basting is temporary sewing to hold things in place. It is typically done by hand, but you can also machine baste. Examples of where basting is commonly used are: - Basting a seam in place before sewing it - Basting an ornament, pocket, or other part in place before attaching it - Basting darts or other pattern changes while fitting the garment on a model - Basting is never permanent, but merely a temporary measure to hold things in place.
  1. Apply waistband.

  2. Apply closures.

  3. Hem: Mark, press, trim, pin, and try on. Finish edge, stitch. Press

  4. Hem lining, attach at vent.

  5. FInal pressing to finish your skirt.


But I will be making a skirt with:

💡 An optional vent in the back and possible locations for the zipper. In this tuto, a vent is used (see part one section 2) A vent in the back is optional. It will allow you to walk a lot easier than if you make the skirt without it. The vent also influences where the zipper will be located. If you choose to have no vent, the default zipper location is on the side seam, and the back will be cut-on-fold. With the vent, there has to be a seam in the back piece, and the zipper will be located on that seam.
💬 Lining Skirts could be tight. This limits your movement quite a bit. More so, when you try to sit down, the skirt may try to pull itself off your waist, or, when you get back up, stay quite high on your bum. Lining the skirt will make it move a lot easier around your curves, and thereby make it easier for you to move. Adding lining can be done by creating a slightly shorter front and back piece, that has some extra fabric in the middle. The extra fabric makes it easier for the lining to move. One inch for each of the front and back pieces is enough. You can either make a box pleat in the front and back, or add the extra fabric where the darts are. You do not need to sew darts in the lining fabric. Just a pleat at the dart position will be fine.
💡 Zipper Without the zipper it will be impossible to get in and out of the skirt. So it should be at least the length from your waist to the largest part of your bum. Longer will make it easier to put the skirt on and off. Don't use one that's too long, because the part of the seam where the zipper is behaves differently than the part without it, and you want to try to make it invisible also in movement. An invisible zipper is often used in a straight skirt. Lately there has been a trend to use zippers that are right in the open. Sometimes even from contrasting fabric. Choose what works for you in the style you're going for. Be creative (or not)! You might want to opt for an alternative option if your fabric is on the heavier side.
💬 Waistband A waistband is optional. If you omit it, there will be quite some stress on the top of the zipper. Make sure your zipper is up to the task. An invisible zipper might not be the best option then, since they can't always take that much strain.
💡 When to use darts and how many darts Darts are used to compensate for the difference between your waist and seat measurements. Depending on this difference, there can be two darts, one dart, or no darts at all. More darts make for a potentially better fit. But if the amount of fabric that the dart will take in becomes too small, the number of darts will be reduced. Otherwise it would be very difficult to sew the darts, and they would probably become rather unsightly. Some of the difference will be taken in by the side seam, and if the difference is small, no darts will be included in the front and back pieces.

Straight Skirt Pattern

N.B: Dark shading denotes right side of fabric, and dotted light shading denotes right side of interfacing.

Detailed and Illustrated Instructions

Part One: Preliminary Construction

1. Stitch darts on Skirt Front J and Skirt Back K as follows:

Stitch darts on Skirt Front J and Skirt Back K

💡 When sewing all the darts, you would want to press them towards the back. So for the back piece, that means you press boths sides towards eachother. For the front piece, just the opposite.
💡 N.B: In "Easy guide to sewing skirts" it's indicated to "press darts towards center front or center back", but after messing around I find that the direction they go do matter after all, which is why the last phrase I have changed it to "press these at the front darts towards the center front"

2. On Skirt Back:

Stitch Center Back Seam On Skirt Back

💡 N.B: Remember to sew an 1-in. seam allowance.

3. Center closed

Center closed

💡 N.B: Reinforce zipper opening with fusible interfacing.

4. Slash center back seam

Slash center back seam

💡 N.B: Reinforce top of vent with fusible interfacing.
💡 N.B: Add two rows of topstitching on right side, to reinforce vent. 💡 Topstitching is when you sew with the good side of the fabric up and your stitches are visible on the finished garments. While a decorative feature, topstitching can also play a role in garment construction.

5. Pin extension to Skirt Back.

Pin extension to Skirt Back

6. Stitch Front to Back

Stitch Front to Back

💡 N.B: Construct and insert a lining if there is a lining.

Part Two: Waistband

A waistband is optional. If you omit it, there will be quite some stress on the top of the zipper. Make sure your zipper is up to the task. An invisible zipper might not be the best option then, since they can't always take that much strain.

1. Pin interfaced side of Waistband to Skirt

Pin interfaced side of Waistband to Skirt

Apply elasticised fitted waistband.

2. Hook

Hook

Secure wasitband by stitching in the ditch from right side.

Step Three: Hem

Hem

Turn hem back and catchstitch in place halfway into hem allowance.

Bibliography - http://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/42/14/51/Tutoriels-2/Haut-de-jupe-avec-parementure--sans-ceinture.pdf - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCADgVLKh4k "HOW TO SEW A SKIRT WITH FACING | NO WAIST BAND REQUIRED | EASY STEP BY STEP METHOD" - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-rKYPmu7Bo "how to sew a MINISKIRT (make your own pattern + detailed tutorial)" - https://en.fashionfreaks.se/ - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LePBR0p-Is "How To Draft A Simple Skirt Pattern With Inner Facing And No Waistband" - "Easy guide to sewing skirts" par Marcy Tilton - https://freesewing.org/ - Queensland University of Technology DFB210 Fashion Design Studio 3 (QUTFashion) - https://sewcreatelive.blogspot.com/2016/09/a-line-skirt-with-waistband.html - Claudette Davis-Bonnick "DavisBonnick" - https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2018/04/11/sewing-glossary-how-to-draft-and-sew-a-vent-tutorial/ - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f65S_mRRId4